By
Carolee Anita Boyles
Florida hunters love their dogs. Whether your hunting partner is a retriever, a pointer, a trailing dog, a hog dog, or a feist, there are many ways that a dog can get hurt, or even die, in the field. But with some protective gear and the right first aid kit, you can have a leg up on preventing, or at least minimizing, injuries your dog is prone to in the field.
Safety Gear
Terry Wilson, President of Ugly Dog Hunting Company, said a safety vest makes the dog clearly visible to hunters. Some are plain safety orange; others have reflective tape on them for more visibility.
“If you bird hunt when deer season is in, other hunters need to be able to see your dog,” he said. “An orange vest also helps locate a dog in thick cover. A vest like this also can protect the dog’s back from barbed wire. Most dogs see barbed wire and go under it, but many times they’ll catch their back on it.”
This kind of visibility vest is useful any time you have a dog in the field.
“We sell orange vests to some hunters who have hog dogs,” Wilson said.
Other vests provide protection for the dog’s chest and belly. These vests also are usually safety orange and give the dog some visibility.
“This kind of vest is critical if you’re hunting in real brushy areas, and it’s great for females to protect the underbelly, especially if you have a dog that’s recently had a litter of pups,” Wilson said.
Today’s neoprene waterfowl vests serve as insulation from the cold, and offer convenient “handholds” for helping a tired and wet dog into the boat. Some vests offer both floatation and warmth, and others offer only floatation. Some have a “skid plate” in the chest area for protection.
“These are good if you have a hard-driving retriever that charges into the water,” Wilson said. “You often have no idea what’s under the water. A vest with a heavy skid plate offers protection for the dog and adds the warmth of the neoprene.”
The key to a good vest for a waterfowl dog, Wilson said, is warmth, particular when you get into the middle of winter; even here in Florida, January mornings can mean water close to freezing.
“Dogs can get hypothermia, and they can’t tell you they’re cold,” he said. “It’s hard to tell when a dog is really cold, because some of them shiver with excitement.”
Some of the most basic waterfowl protective gear is a piece of wood and a couple of wool blankets.
“Aluminum boats conduct cold,” Wilson said. “So I built a wooden box for my dog to keep him off the aluminum. I put a wool blanket on the box for him to sit on, and after he shakes off he gets up on the blanket and I throw another blanket over him. He stays there until it’s time for him to go out again.”
First Aid
First aid kits for humans and for dogs are similar, but a first aid kit for dogs never contains either aspirin, Tylenol or Ibuprofen; any of the three can be toxic to dogs.
One thing to look for in a dog’s first aid kit is a card with basic first aid instructions for dogs. It should cover field first aid for at least gunshot wounds, snakebites, and a tangle with barbed wire.
“The other thing I like to carry is a field first aid book,” Wilson said. “It’s a quick reference, and hopefully you have time to look up whatever is going on.” The book he likes is “Dog First Aid: A Field Guide to Emergency Care for the Outdoor Dog,” which was written by veterinarian Dr. Randy Acker.
Another issue in the field is not letting your dog get dehydrated.
“The main thing is getting the dog to drink,” Wilson said. “A lot of dogs won’t drink in the field; they want to go go go and they’re reluctant to stop and drink.”
Wilson uses a product called Rehydrate, which was developed by a veterinarian at the University of Minnesota.
“It’s a kind of beef flavor that dogs love,” he said. “I’ve tried drinking it, and it’s not great, but dogs really lap it up.” Rehydrate comes in tablets that dissolve when dropped into clean water, so you can carry one water bottle for both you and your dog.
Another product Wilson likes is an “energy” bar called XtremFuel Booster Bar.
“It gives them some extra energy,” Wilson said. “We typically give the dog a quarter of a bar before he starts, another quarter of a bar maybe half an hour to 45 minutes into the hunt, and the other half of the bar later.”
Never Do This
If your dog is injured, never move him without muzzling him. Even the most loving, even tempered dog can snap or bite when in pain. It’s just a basic “dog” reflex that can make a bad situation worse.
“You can wrap gauze from the first aid kit around the dog’s mouth to keep him from biting,” Wilson said.
And never try to substitute your expertise for that of your vet. Depending on where you are and what the situation is, you may have to patch a dog up temporarily the best you can. But if it’s more than just a thorn or a scratch, get your dog to a vet as soon as you’re able.
